Our train journey ended in Jasper and from now on we were to be ferried about on coaches. Everything worked seamlessly and the stops and sights chosen by Rocky Mountaineer were spot on. The knowledge from the various driver-guides was extensive and there was no way we would have learned as much if we were self driving. To sit back and relax, just looking at the scenery and concentrating on potential bear sightings was far easier than me having to navigate and the MOTH having to drive.



The drive from Jasper to Lake Louise is one of the most scenic in Canada. The Icefields Parkway is world famous for its beautiful drive through the Rockies. Our trip to the Athabasca glacier on an over snow vehicle was included and despite knowing I would be going onto the snow and ice I somehow wasn’t adequately dressed. Especially as it started raining as we got off our coach. It was more like little frozen needles coming down and we very quickly became wet and cold. Our driver on the over snow vehicle pumped up the heat and we were all soon steaming up the windows as we warmed up and he negotiated his way on to the glacier. There is a maybe a 500sqm area that they groom in the morning to give a little more traction for us to get out and experience the conditions more safely. A Canadian flag flew proudly and I slithered and slid my way around peering at some of the deep blue cracks that you could see under the ice. Our driver told us a story from long ago of a man who fell down one of the crevasses and got sucked into the underground river that runs under the entire glacier. Miraculously he got spat out as the river emerged further downhill and lived to tell the tale! He became a passionate protector of the glacier and felt profoundly connected to it.

Our next stop was far more tranquil even though it involved walking out on a glass platform suspended 280 metres above the wild Sunwapta Valley below! Luckily the one kilometre walk prior to the glass was informative and less scary for this little traveller. We even saw a Mother Mountain goat with her baby clinging perilously to the sheer cliffs. Somehow their hooves adhere to the smallest ledge and provide some shelter from the circling eagles who are partial to newborn kids! Everything about Canada seems to be death defying!


Before we knew it we were back on the bus and heading towards one of my most looked forward to stops – Lake Louise. I have seen so many beautiful photos of it both in the snow and in the summer and I was hoping it wouldn’t disappoint. We had two days and nights to immerse ourselves and I had high hopes. We were staying in The Fairmont, the only hotel that is located directly on the lake and commonly referred to as The Chateau Lake Louise. We were looking forward to some hiking and kayaking during the day and relaxing, eating some good food and of course for our number one Sports Fan the opportunity to watch a couple of the World Cup games in the Sports Bar. Naturally he soon befriended one of the bar managers, a lovely young guy who took a shine to us and ended up gifting us the Lake Louise Gin giftpack and some lovely whisky. Our English friends from the train joined us here and it was lovely to enjoy some drinks and stories whilst watching the soccer! Nothing could outdo the first view I had of the Lake on arrival though. We walked through the gorgeous foyer and were drawn to the turquoise colour that streamed through the huge window in the bar ahead. There she was in all her glory and every bit as gorgeous as I had imagined!

We enjoyed our very comfortable room, complete with a proper coffee machine at last and tried a couple of the restaurants on site. We had no intention of going anywhere else until we checked out!



The next morning we awoke to a beautiful day of blue skies and sunshine and perfect weather for some hiking around the lake, A forested path leads you 2/3 of the way around and all you can see is that amazing coloured water, hear the birds trilling away and the ever cheeky ground squirrels scurrying about. I felt totally relaxed for the first time on the trip and the air was so fresh and clean it made you feel good to be alive!




The time of day completely changes how you feel here. Before the day trippers arrive and after they leave it feels like a magic secret, a natural wonder where someone just happened to drop a luxury hotel. Getting up early and kayaking on the lake in all its stillness was wonderful. Apparently it is very deep – about 70 metres – so I was definitely not keen on falling in, the glacial lakes are soooo cold that you only get a few minutes before your blood focuses on your essential organs leaving your limbs numb and incapable of swimming to safety! Once the day trippers arrive it feels like the Christmas Sales with crowds of people milling about the lakefront and walking around the lakeshore path so it’s a bit of a tale of two cities. We felt lucky that we were staying there and could enjoy the lake avoiding peak busy times.



I was feeling a bit sad about saying goodbye to LL but luckily/unluckily the weather changed and we ended up leaving under heavy grey skies which progressed to heavy rain later in the afternoon so the coach was a good place to be after all! We spotted a few black bears on the side of the road and even sitting on a train line so the rain definitely wasn’t bothering them! We drove out of the weather to a lovely little jewel – Green Lake in Sascatchewan. Again the car park was heaving with cars and people which kind of spoils things a bit but we managed to walk to a more secluded part to take in that amazing colour and the serenity. Tourists rarely seem to walk much further than the gift shop or cafe and after taking a few snaps I think they mentally tick it off their list and move on!



Back on to the bus and back into the rain, we headed to Banff. We had been very lucky to squeeze Green Lake in between the bad weather so we didn’t mind too much as we headed through the township of Banff in the pouring rain, dropping various groups at different hotels before we headed out of town to what the locals refer to as the Castle of the Rockies – the famous Fairmont Banff Springs. It is huge, more like a village and with the characteristic architecture we have come to expect from the Fairmont Hotels. Our room was gorgeous, and with the provided map in hand we explored the vast hotel. A lovely swimming pool and golf course outside and a smaller indoor pool and gym for those who were so inclined! There were about 5 different restaurants and a couple of gorgeous bars.







We had our last catch up with Peter and Elaine before they flew back to London, enjoying some drinks and recollections of our trip. Everything had been positive which was brilliant because you never quite know when you sign up to a planned tour whether it will be good or bad! We had visited a great selection of sights and enjoyed unique experiences and felt we had had value for money with all the special things we had done. We hope that we will catch up with our holiday friends in the UK (or maybe even in Australia) at some stage for some more reminiscing!




In the meantime we explored the township of Banff which was quite big, loads of cafes and restaurants as well as cowboy shops selling boots, hats and belts as well as tourist shops with the obligatory souvenirs. My ever stylish partner bought a great pair of boots (having to make room in his case by abandoning a favourite but old pair he had bought in Bath UK – do you notice a theme here folks?) He is notorious on holidays for buying clothes and leaving me for dead in the shopping stakes! We found Banff rather big and again, very busy, but this is to be expected in the summer I suppose when school holidays are in full throttle. The only reason we were travelling at this time of year was because we planned our whole trip around the Calgary Stampede which was on in early July meaning we knew we would have to put up with some crowds. Nothing like Europe though I must say, still plenty of room to get around and plenty of seats in restaurants unlike in Venice, Barcelona or Santorini midsummer. Back we went to the sanctity of the Castle, quite happy just to enjoy the space and the beautiful facilities before our last day on the Rocky Mountaineer Tour which was to end in Calgary.

A trip up the Banff Gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain was interesting despite a smoky haze enveloping the town due to the wildfires in BC. Mountains that had been clear the day before now completely invisible – it’s quite uncanny knowing they are there but not being able to see them and I think we ended up being quite lucky as after we left Canada the smoke got a lot worse and our last week would have been a very different kettle of fish! You can usually see 5 mountain ranges (see above) as well as The Bow River and the township itself from up there but not today hence no photo! We walked the boardwalk to the summit to Sanson’s Peak and the Cosmic Ray Station (originally a weather observatory before it acquired a second purpose when it was rebuilt to serve as a laboratory for researching cosmic ray particles in the atmosphere.) before heading down to see a herd of long horned sheep gathered under the gondola who entertained us for a while before moving on delighting us and scaring a few hikers on the mountain!
Then it was farewell to Banff and we were back on the bus and off to Calgary to get our cowboy on – yeeha!!































































































































