Arriving at Parma train station we were relaxed – we knew this station well and had no qualms we would soon be pulling into Verona station and onto our next adventure…..how wrong could we be?

Little did we know that this was the chosen day for a countrywide rail strike and that chaos would be the word of the day! As train after train became cancelled up on the board we struck up some conversations with young students who were all trying to get to Bologna as we were and thankfully they had both the internet and spoke English! As it turns out no one knew what the hell was happening and therefore we just had to wait until a train finally arrived and we all piled on. Bologna was an hour closer to Verona at least and had more amenities but it was completely packed with people languishing on the platforms – some sleeping on their luggage and very long queues to speak to “officials” We joined one and was told that we may have a chance of a train to Verona at 6pm – 4 hours away! What can you do except wait and have faith….You can imagine how many people were attempting to board that train when it finally came! We managed to get one seat between us and swapped every 30 minutes until FINALLY we pulled into Verona station and made our way to the taxi rank which snaked around the train terminal like a giant python – now what we asked? Apparently the Italian Music Awards were being held in the Arena at Verona this weekend and the place was heaving with people – an hours wait for a cab and we finally arrived at the Piazza Erbe and to our accommodation. Just in the nick of time as it turned out as the key code was to expire in the following 30 minutes! We dumped our luggage, changed and went in search of a much needed pizza and a bottle of wine. What do you know – we finally ate like locals at 9.30pm!! It was heaven and a certain person was even happier when he found out our apartment was right next to a wonderful gelateria….

From our veranda we looked out at the bell tower of Verona – you can see it from everywhere in the town and was a handy navigational tool for us when exploring! The brickwork and plaster is characteristic of Verona as were the huge, beautiful blush pink marble pavers that constituted the main walkways – so pretty. Our apartment is where The Scaglieri used to live when they ruled Verona from 1262 to 1387. It’s a lovely building with the most beautiful terrazzo floors and thankfully a lift! You could barely squish 2 people into it but we were very grateful for it! We were the large windows to the left of the building as you look at it on the 2nd floor and we loved being in the middle of all the action (especially as they had double glazing to block out any unwanted noise) – perfect for 4 nights.

When we woke up the next morning in our gorgeous classic apartment we could see what a great position we were in. Situated in the Piazza dei Signori we were just enough off the main drag to feel smug whilst only being a 5 minute walk from everything. The first thing we did was to check out the market that had mushroomed overnight on our doorstep. Touristy gifts as well as fresh food including these amazing fruit pots. They were bursting with sweet ripe fruit and a perfect start to the day with an espresso on our veranda. A few minutes’ walk away we had shops, restaurants, outdoor cafes and the infamous Juliet’s Balcony. Our friends Kathy and Ralph from Oz were also here for a few nights, and we had arranged to meet up for dinner as they were just around the corner. They had booked an apartment overlooking Juliet’s balcony and had no idea how popular this place would be with the public – it is literally pulsating with people from 7.30am – 7.30pm every day! Considering there is no proof that this had anything whatsoever to do with Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet it is quite incredible. Apparently around 500 people a year write to Juliet asking her advice??? There is a dedicated staff of people behind the scenes who reply – a real life advice column apparently. Anyway, it is a lovely little courtyard once it is shut to the public and we enjoyed a bottle of rose on the steps pondering how some things become so famous while others don’t!

The next day we went exploring on foot which is ALWAYS the best way to discover things and found ourselves over the river and catching the cable car to the hilltop fortress overlooking Verona. It has the most magic views for miles and really shows how the city grew from the inside out towards the river which completely encompasses it making it easy to defend back in the day. The terracotta rooftops and the myriad spires made for an awe inspiring view and as we looked around in the sunshine we felt so lucky to be here on this holiday after what the last two years had dished up to the world. Hundreds if not thousands of other people had thought the same thing as it turned out and Verona was BUSY! Despite this you could still turn down any little alley and find a cute little restaurant or a quiet seat to take in the scenery away from the madding crowd and the food options were fantastic!

The local markets were bristling with fresh produce – bunches of fat white asparagus nestling next to vibrant bouquets of fiery chillies and baskets of wild mushrooms of all shapes and sizes – equated to some super tasty dishes in the kitchen and we were in our element! After four days of wining, dining and shopping we were ready to get back on the road and to discover new places again, in fact our next destination was the main reason we were here in this part of Italy.

In 2020 for my 60th birthday we bought 2 x tickets to see Andrea Bocelli in concert in Marostica, a hill top town in the mountains of Venezia. I have always loved him and the thought of hearing him live in such a wonderful atmospheric location had been the clincher to spend the money and go for it! Of course, we all know what happened then and each year the concert was “postponed” to the following year until this year the world felt normal enough to resume and here we were! We bumped into many other people from all over the world who had the same story and the excitement was tangible as we arrived in town to see the entire Piazza full of staging and seating for the following night’s concert, Our B&B was a 5 minute walk from town so we were very lucky as we didn’t have to worry about how to get to and from the concert at least. We spent the day in nearby Bassano del Grappa, the town credited for inventing grappa – the after dinner spirit loved throughout Italy. It was a cute little town which we enjoyed exploring and after yet another great lunch we went home to get ready for the night’s entertainment. Our friends Kathy and Ralph had also come to Bassano in the hope they could pick up some last minute tickets to the show (it was their wedding anniversary after all) and miraculously (and at a not to be disclosed dollar amount) scooped up a couple of front row tickets! Happiness prevailed and we all had the BEST night soaking up the beautiful music and the sheer soul of the entire experience. A night never to be forgotten.

The next day we caught the train from Bassano to Venice – a mere 1.5 hours away – where absolutely nothing can prepare you for getting off a train which has been travelling through the countryside to alight on a platform overlooking the Grand Canal!!! It’s as if you’ve arrived in a parallel universe or a James Bond movie set!!

Within minutes of catching our vaporetto – a public water bus – we were getting off at Rialto and walking the 5 minutes to our airbnb apartment smack in the middle of Venice. It was small but comfy and airconditioned which was great as it was hot here! Throngs of people moved down the narrow lanes like salmon going upstream all heading to St Marks Square and all the amazing historical buildings of Venice. For me the magic was more to be found down tiny offshoot alleyways some as narrow as just 2 people and around every corner there were canals of varying sizes. This photo sums up the magic of Venice to me despite its innate touristy-ness. Venice is a crumbling yet majestic city completely unique in every way. It’s noisy, hectic in some parts and totally serene and tranquil in others. When the heat and the many steps and bridges became too much for my injured companion, we would find a table in the shade and sip on an icy aperol spritz or frosty beer and spend an hour people watching until we had the strength to continue on our way!

We joined the snaking line to catch a ferry to Murano and Burano islands about a 40 minute journey from the centre of Venice. It was a gloriously sunny day and the gelato sellers were doing a roaring trade as boat after boat was filled to capacity and we had another 30 minutes to wait for the next one. We nearly gave up at one point but were so glad we didn’t as we had the loveliest day poking around these creative enclaves. We watched the glassblowers doing their thing in Murano and I was as gobsmacked this trip as I was as a teenager when I was last in Venice and came to see beautiful things being created out of a blob of molten silica! The colours were amazing and I would have loved to buy something but The Meadow is not the place for anything breakable and these pieces also deserve to be “presented” correctly and not tucked away out of sight so sadly we passed on any purchases. Instead, we headed to Burano and lunch! Such a pretty little place with its colourful small houses and traditional lace making shops. Music played, the sun shone and the ice tinkled in our wine glasses – this was our last full day in Italy and we spent it well.

The next day could NOT be more different after a huge storm ripped through Venice the night before – just as we were finishing dinner in our local square – and sent everyone scurrying indoors grabbing plates and glasses and whatever they could put their hands on whilst the lightening thunder and rain conducted their own symphony. It was short and very sharp and by the time we finally left the rain was just a gentle patter which continued most of the night. By morning and leaving time the wind was up and the weather was the worst we’d seen since arriving in Italy. Of course we had decided to be a bit extravagant and had ordered a water taxi to take us directly to the airport thus avoiding getting on and off ferries/trains/taxis. This had been arranged on a beautiful sunny day and we had visions of our own James Bond moment as we left Venice witnessing it’s beauty for the last time. The reality was nothing like this. The waves broke over the top of the boat as we swayed from side to side in the big seas. We had to be seated very specifically to balance the boat in the conditions and the 30 minute trip was one to be endured rather than enjoyed. Our Captain was wonderful though as apparently it was right on the cusp of conditions making it impossible to go the distance safely!! Both the best and the worst trip to an airport ever. As we checked in for our flight to Edinburgh, we wondered what the next stage of our adventure would bring……